It was time to plan a trip and the first choice was Hilton Head, SC. I worked for an outfitter (Outside Hilton Head) for several years as a kayak guide, giving 2 hour guided tours on the nature of the low country waters. My paddling partner had never been to that area and it seems perfect for me to show her the ropes and teach her about the waters and wildlife. Alas, Mother Nature decided to send Hurricane Matthew just off the coast of Hilton Head and provided enough down trees and power outages to make us change our plans. The back up location was much closer to home and just 5 hours southeast below the big bend of Florida in the rustic old Florida town of Cedar Key.
I describe Cedar Key as a rustic old Florida town because it has none of the glitz and glamour of its neighbor in the mid state (Orlando). Cedar Key is just one of many small islands (called Keys) and it has no stop lights, no high rise condos, no tourist trap gift shops and no traffic/parking problems. After a comfortable drive down from the Fort Walton Beach area, we crossed over two bridges into the town of Cedar Key. A short drive through the "downtown" and we were at our condo. The condo offered a fantastic view of the marsh from its 3rd floor balcony (the first floor was covered parking). We unloaded our gear and trucked it up the 3 flights of stairs, unpacked and settled in to enjoy the evening with a couple of light libations.
The first evening, we ventured down to the waterfront for dinner at one of the few popular restaurants on the main drag. It was a beautiful evening and we walked around the pier area enjoying the lights
as they reflected in the calm waters. No reservations required and fresh seafood was plentiful.
Our main purpose for the trip was to kayak in and around the many small keys so we watched the weather to make sure conditions would be suitable. Unfortunately, a rain storm came in and we had to postpone kayaking until the following day. Rain can have its advantages though and we had the wonderful view of the backwaters and all the birds. We sat on the balcony with cameras and binoculars (and a few more libations) and loved every minute of it.
An added treat for me as I got up early, was the fantastic sunrise that I captured from the balcony. The day dawned clear, the winds were down and it looked like a great opportunity to kayak. We had Googled outfitters in the area and found one small business that would deliver the kayaks to our choice of launch sites and pick us up when the trip was complete. The boats were delivered right to our condos and we launched at high tide from the Gulf side beach. Our destination was Atsena Otie Key, just about a mile across open water from our launch site and the outfitter told us it would take 1 1/2 hours to paddle all the way around it. The winds were coming in from the South as we started out and it was interesting to paddle out and away from our destination to head into the waves, then cut back and angle with the waves to the key. Atsena Otie was originally supposed to be the main key and town as it had a large pencil production plant and pier. The Faber pencil mill was destroyed in a hurricane and the scrapped lumber from the mill was used to build the town of Cedar Key. Atsena Otie Key is now a National Wildlife Refuge and is a kayakers paradise. 
We beached our kayaks on a long, pristine beach and walked around the point where we met a couple of kayakers visiting from Denmark. It was interesting to hear how they found their way to this hidden part of Florida and how much they were enjoying the rustic nature of it. Back into the kayaks and we headed around the northern end of the key to where the old shipping pier juts out into the Gulf. As we approached, we were amazed to see every inch of the long pier and T-shaped end filled with cormorants. These diving birds thrive in the fish rich waters of the Gulf and were happily drying their feathers in the sun. 
Only one dolphin was sighted during this paddle and it was a very brief look. There is usually a lot more dolphin activity but I guess we weren't at the right time or place. The tide was ebbing as we made our way around the western side of the key and we were prevented from paddling up the inland channels due to shallow water. The real treat of the day was on the south end of the key (the end most exposed to the tides and weather of the Gulf) and we pulled up on a wonderful driftwood beach. We set out the lunch of deli ham and cheese sandwiches and beer we had purchased in town the day before and as we ate, a small hammerhead shark put on a show as he fed amongst the dead fall trees and branches in the shallow waters.
The winds from earlier in the day had completely subsided and we had calm, almost glassy waters on the paddle back to Cedar Key. It was getting late in the day and the tide was low so we called the outfitter and arranged for him to pick us up by the rock jetty on the west end of the key. The trip ended with us tired but filled with memories of the adventures from the day.
We cooked at the condo that night and enjoyed another evening of bird watching and relaxing on the balcony. Another paddle trip was planned for the next day as the weather forecast was again showing excellent conditions.
Our kayak outfitter from the previous day was unavailable when we called the next morning so we went to check out another outfitter that kept his boats on the public beach. We opted for a couple of 14' sit-on top kayaks and got some much needed local information about cutting through the mangrove islands to reach Scale Key and Dog Island. The tide was in-coming and there was plenty of water. As we reached the point of entry the outfitter had told us about, it looked like a solid bank of trees and shrubs. The closer I paddled, the more it opened up and I led the way into a new world, not seen from the more often travelled and deeper channels.
The waters were like glass and the paddling was almost effortless as we glided silently among the mangroves and tidal pools. The birds were everywhere and barely took notice of our presence in their special world. Our paddles would disturb schools of fish that would splash and scurry out of the way. Slowly we worked our way through the many twists and turns of this little paradise and found ourselves right at Scale Key. We paddled our way around this large key and found another driftwood beach where we pulled ashore and wandered around taking photographs of the uniquely shaped and weathered wood. Today's lunch consisted of rye bread and cheese, left over from the previous day. Of course a cold beer helped wash it all down. We launched again and made our way past Dog Island but didn't stop since we only rented the boats for 2 hours. We paddled across a long stretch of open water between the keys and I was amazed at how shallow the waters were. The deeper channels are well marked and power boaters have to follow the markers. Kayaks draft only a few inches of water and can go almost anywhere. I was in the lead position as we paddled and I was treated to a sea turtle surfacing near my boat for a breath of air. We pulled the boats ashore at the public beach, unloaded our gear and headed back to the condo - another perfect day on the water.
We weren't alone at the jetty as several cars pulled up and visitors found spots among the rocks to sit and enjoy the light show of reds, oranges and yellows as the sun dropped over the tree lined horizon. Most left immediately after the main event but we sat and enjoyed the warm breeze and the afterglow of what nature had provided.
It was another opportunity to try out one of the local restaurants and we decided to try the more upscale Island Hotel restaurant. It isn't big but it is nicely decorated and the food was excellent. Afterwards, we shifted over to the intimate little hotel bar area. Conversations are shared by the patrons and staff and new friends are made quickly. We asked the owner to take our picture and he invited us to stand behind the bar with the painting of Neptune behind us. A perfect setting to remember a perfect night.
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| A trio of Roseate Spoonbills in flight |
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| A Roseate Spoonbill feeding |
It was second choice location but it turned out to be one of the best trips I've taken and I will return to Cedar Key often in the future. A small slice of heaven on the Gulf coast of Florida.
